Lisbon and Sintra Portugal

Scott and I have been following the weather back home in America this winter, and for our kids in Chicago, Katie and Chris, it has definitely been a snowy winter. The same holds true for Dan and Jamie in New Jersey. Even our Istanbul based family, Jennie, Zach and little Josiah, had a big snowstorm this year! Here on the Cumbrian coastline we rarely see snow; generally only an odd snow shower once in awhile. Instead, of course, we see a lot of cold rain and wind and this year has been no exception. I have found that by mid-February we are looking for somewhere to get away for a few days and escape the cold, dark winter days. Scott's schedule doesn't really permit long getaways, so I look for the closest place I can find, with the highest possibility of sunshine. Of course it also needs to be somewhere we have not visited yet. This year we opted for a short flight and a long weekend to Portugal and headed off to Lisboa (Lisbon). What a great choice! Friendly, welcoming people, good food and wine, moderate temperatures, and……..sun! Just what we needed!

Lisbon is one of the oldest cities in Europe, dating back to 800 to 600 BC. Lisbon's early history included settlements by Celts, Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, and Moors. It has roots in both Christianity and Islam. Lisbon is situated at the mouth of the Tagus River, just inland from the Atlantic Ocean and well positioned to enjoy trade from both Europe and the Mediterranean. Because of it's strategic location, Lisbon has always been an important seaport. Historians believe that at one time Lisbon was larger than London and Paris! The influence of so many different cultures gives Lisbon a very different feel from most of the European cities we have visited. 

Our hotel was located in central Lisbon, not far from the ancient Alfama neighborhood, and close to several beautiful public squares. A short walk down a pedestrian shopping street led to Praco de Comercio, Commerce Square, which is also known as Terreiro do Paco, Palace Square. This has to be one of the largest public squares we have ever seen! We did find out that it used to be part of an immense palace. In 1755 Lisbon suffered through one of the largest earthquakes and tsunami's ever recorded where an estimated 30 to 60,000 people lost their lives. The palace, along with a most of the other waterfront buildings, was destroyed. As part of a huge rebuilding project, the square was reopened and and re-purposed as a center for commercial trade. 

In the center of the square is a fantastic monument including an equestrian statue of King Jose I. 

Rua Augusta Triumphal Arch built to commemorate the reconstruction of Lisboa after the earthquake of 1755. The statue at the top was created by French sculptor  Celestin Anatole Calmels and represents reward of valor and genius.

Street cars can still be found taking tourists around Lisbon.
We were told that in the summer months some of them are absolutely packed.

This square was also the scene of some more modern political drama. On February 1 1908 this was the scene of the assassination of Carlos I the second to last king of Portugal. Within only about two years Portugal was embroiled in revolution spelling an end to the Portuguese monarchy. On our first night in Lisbon we enjoyed an outstanding late night meal in this square at Populi restaurant, where we were introduced to Ginja D'Obidos, Portuguese sour cherry liqueur. A local treat to be sure.

There is plenty to see in Lisboa and a very rich history to learn about. On the waterfront in the center of the old city directly on the shore of the Tagus River is a monument that characterizes the city and an important part of the history of the Portuguese people. Padrao dos Descobrimentos Monument to the Discoveries is located on the northern bank of the Tagus River where in the 15th and 16th century ships departed to explore the Orient and India. The monument was designed and constructed for the Portuguese World Fair in 1940.

Food, Folks and Fado

On our second night we visited Sr Fado restaurant in ancient Alfama to enjoy traditional Portuguese food and to experience traditional Portuguese Fado Music. Duarte and Maria Santos are the propriators and were our hosts for the evening. Their stated aim is to "welcome strangers and have them feel like family" and they certainly did that for us. They welcomed us into their home and served us wonderful Portuguese seafood along with olives, fresh vegetables and home made wine from their farm.  Maria prepared the meal and Duarte served it up. We were joined by people from France, Italy, Spain, Portugal, Canada, and the US. Duarte was able to cary on conversations in all five languages without hesitation bringing us all together for an outstanding experience. After our meal we were treated to an evening of Fado, poetry set to music presented by our hosts and two additional musicians. Obrigada Maria and Duarte for sharing your home and your culture with us!

As we mentioned, Lisbon has roots in many cultures. High atop a hill overlooking the old town area of Lisbon is The Castle of Sao Jorge. From here the narrow streets wind through the Alfama district down to the waterfront. We booked a walking tour of this area and we spent several hours learning about this intriguing part of Lisbon from our guide, Paulo.

The Castle of Sao Jorge is a Moorish castle on the top of a tall hillside overlooking the old city of Lisboa and the Tagus River dating from the midieval period of Portuguese history. The first fortifications on this hilltop date to the 2nd century BC. Through time the hill was used by Celtic tribes, Phoenicians, Greeks, and Carthaginians then by Roman, Suebic, Visigothic and Moorish peoples. In the 10th century fortifications were substantially rebuilt by Muslim Berber forces. What a rich history!

Rooftops over the Alfama District down to the river. 

Paulo, our guide, told us that new docks have recently been built along the waterfront here
to accomodate large cruise boats. While that's probably going to be a nice boost for Lisbon's
economy, those huge boats definitely alter the views! Thankfully it's still the "off-season"
so no cruise boats interrupted our appreciation of the beautiful vistas!

The Monastery of St. Vincent

The Church of Monastery of Sao Vicente de Fora or Monastery of St. Vincent Outside the Walls is a 17th century church and monastery. It is dedicated to the parton saint of Lisboa. The church of the monastery was built by King Philip II of Spain after he also became King of Portugal in 1582.

Sintra

We were told that we could board a train in Lisbon and in an hour's time we would be in the countryside and at the mountain village of Sintra. Sintra is a UNESCO World Heritage Site known for Romantic architectural monuments. We read about, and had seen pictures of, the colorful Pena Palace and wanted to see it so we set off on Saturday morning for an adventure in the countryside. When we got there we were not disappointed.

A very pretty village

Sintra National Palace

Pena National Palace

We found the colorful palace we were looking for. The Palacio Nacionl da Pena or Pena National Palace is the palace of Sao Pedro Penaferrim and is located high on a hilltop in the countryside municipality of Sintra. This structure is recognized as one of the worlds major expressions on 19th century Romanticism and identified as one of the Seven Wonders of Portugal. It is used today for state occasions by the President of the Portuguese Republic. The palace is an eclectic mixture of Neo-Gothic, Neo-Manueline, Neo Islamic and Neo Renaissance architecture.  The combination is colorful and magical mix and we had a bit of fun poking around all of the nooks and crannies and open air spaces. The views across the mountains and out to the sea from up here are fantastic.

This almost looks like a castle from a Disney movie!

A newt, symbolizing the 

allegory of creation of the world

An 8th century Moorish castle perched high on the mountain top.

Quinta da Regaleira

Also here in Sintra is the estate of Quinta da Regaleira which includes a palace a chapel and a landscape of gardens and structures including underground tunnels leading to movable rock walls, spiral stair wells and spiral stair towers and a variety of statuary and water features. 

The palace is known locally as the Palace of Monteiro the Millionaire for the former owner Antonio Augusto Carvalho Monteiro. The site was constructed to include many symbols that reflect the interests and ideologies of its owners. Symbols of Alchemy, Masonry, the Knights Templar, and the Rosicrucians are all said to be captured here. Architecture of the estate includes examples of Roman, Gothic, Renaissance, and Manueline styles. Construction was completed between 1904 and 1910. We found this place to be curious and reminiscent of an old television show from our youth, and a newer movie, The Adams Family. 

"They're creepy and they're kooky, mysterious and spooky, they're all together ooky, the Addams Family. The house is a museum, when people come to see 'em…". 

We expected Lurch to pop up at any moment!

Belfast

Belfast City Hall

We spent a beautiful, although quite cold, Saturday morning walking the downtown district of Belfast. Belfast is a fairly small city and we easily found our way to Belfast City Hall and the Belfast Cathedral, passing some interesting art along the way. Queen Victoria granted city status to Belfast and planning for the Belfast City Hall began in 1888. At that time Belfast was a vibrant and prosperous city known for shipbuilding, linen production and rope making. Small wonder, then, that Belfast was later selected as the place to build the world's largest passenger ship at the time, Titanic.

The "Spirit of Belfast" is a modern sculpture placed in the city center in 2009. It is found in Arthur Square and is intended to bring together the "strength of steel, ocean liners and linen, progress and peace".

At a cost of £2500, this clock tower was built as a memorial to Prince Albert in 1865. The structure was built on wooden piles and actually leans four feet out of vertical.

On our walk we stopped in at St. George's Market where on a Saturday morning you can listen to live local music, buy all manner of fresh fish, meat, and vegetables, or you can sample local food.

Belfast has a beautiful Cathedral that also was first constructed in 1888 when the queen granted city status. The Cathedral was built around an old parish church dating back to 1776.  The original parish church was demolished once the new structure was completed. The building has continued to be a work in progress. Most recently, the Spire of Hope was added in 2007. 

St. Anne's Cathedral also called Belfast Cathedral

Mosaic Dome of the Baptistry

The Sanctuary

The RMS Titanic   

Belfast is known to many of us as the place where the great ship RMS Titanic was designed, built, fitted out, and launched. Today you can visit the site of the Harland & Wolf shipyard, the dry dock where she was built and a first class exhibit depicting the lives of those who built her and those who were on board on that unfortunate maiden voyage in 1912. We spent the afternoon and had some fun checking this out. 

Views from the exhibition hall.

 Titanic Exhibition Hall, each of the four wings is the size and shape of the ship's bow.

Saturday night we visited a few famous Irish Pubs. We enjoyed great food and some Irish Beer at the Crown Bar and then we moved on to Robinson's, where we stopped in to enjoy a wee pint and some live music at Fibber McGee's, located in the back of Robinson's. Definitely a highlight of our time in Belfast!

Gates in the Peace Wall (these gates never open)

"The Troubles"
The history of conflict in Ireland can be traced well back in time. Armed conflict between Catholics and Protestants subsided as a product of a 1921 agreement.  However the conflict known as "The Troubles of Northern Ireland" took front and center in the eyes of the world during the riots of 1968. The riots were followed by mobilization of British troops and open conflict that persisted for more than 35 years. Tensions and peace and reconciliation efforts continue. The Peace Wall, a tall and strong barrier remains today separating the neighborhoods and the people. Political murals are displayed on both sides of the wall reflecting the strong and opposing views that continue in West Belfast. We took a Black Taxi Tour to see and to hear of the history of the conflict marked by such tragic loss of life. 

Our taxi driver/tour guide explained that this "Peace Wall"
extends more than 2 miles with gates closing the crossroads.

Wall of political murals placed by the political party, Sinn Fein.

Bobby Sands, who was a member of the Provisional Irish Republican Army (IRA), died in 1981 during a hunger strike that he lead. He is memorialized on the side of the Sinn Fein building. He was elected to the British Parliament while in HM Prison Maze.

The Peace Wall extends as far as the eye can see, this Mural is on the protestant side of the wall.

Tribute to the Queen and statement of loyalty of  Ulster to England also
on the "Protestant Side" of the wall.

Memorial to the Belfast Ulster Volunteers (UVF)
This memorial wall has been completed recently and is on the side of a
building in the midst of a residential area. 

A memorial to Stephen McKeag nicknamed "Top Gun", a Commander in the Ulster Defense  Association (UDA) in the 1990's, died in 2000 and was known for violence on Shankill Road, on the Protestant side of West Belfast.

We really enjoyed our time together in Belfast. This city has seen some very good times and no doubt some most difficult times. Above all we found the people to be warm and welcoming. The food is really good and of course the beer is outstanding!